So the last leg of our trip began in Buenos Aires. Just over 4 weeks
left, 3 countries, lots of buses and only one more flight....the flight
back to the UK! It's unlikely that this blog will actually get that far
as we have a fair bit to do and cover but let's see how we go.
Having
been advised by numerous people to spend a fair few days in Buenos
Aires, we did just that. We spent our time visiting a number of the
districts and the sights within them. The first day we took in some of
the sights immediately near our hostel. These included the obelisk,
presidential palace, congress and the cathedral, which was undergoing
some significant renovation! We then treated ourselves to a rather large
steak that evening which Em decided she liked!
The next day we took a free tour to Le Boca, the working class district of Buenos. This is the birthplace I he famous Tango dance! The afternoon was spent wandering the more affluent area of Recoleta and its famous cemetery. Following on this theme, we had decided to take in a Tango show at La Ventana. This was a rather posh restaurant which served an exquisite three course meal and followed it with a breathtaking show of music and dance!!
Our final day in Buenos saw us travel to the district of Palermo, which we wandered around an even managed to see some of the Murray vs Vedasco game at a cafe.
From Buenos Aires we decided to head over to Uruguay for a few days. We caught the ferry across to colonia, a very small,quaint, historic town. Our time was spent walking around and taking in the sights such as the lighthouse, old port and the ruins of the old town. On our first night we treated ourselves to a local dish...; Chivito. This large meal for two included a platter of fries, salad and veg, topped with two steaks, cheese, bacon and fried eggs!! We were stuffed afterwards! The next day we were lucky enough to catch some of the Wimbledon semi finals whilst indulging in a local dessert, chaja (a meringue and sponge cake).
After Colonia we visited Montevideo, which was a complete and utter waste of time. There is nothing to do or see and is possibly the worst place we have been on our whole trip!! The most amusing thing about montevideo as the rather inappropriate fallus shaped fence surrounding a children's playground.
We were very happy to return to Buenos Aires. Back here we took a free city tour, where we discovered there was a protest outside the presedential palace. As quoted by our tour guide "it was just a gunshot, you'll be hearing them all day", these gunshots turned out to be fireworks and bangers let off by the truckers unhappy at paying taxes!! That evening we embarked on one of our longest bus journeys to date, the 19hour trip to Salta.
Whilst in Salta we took two day trips. The first was to Cachi, a really pretty, quaint little town with a very European feel to it. We stopped at numerous places along the way to admire the amazing scenery and get gets photos of the local wildlife (condors) and nature (cacti).
Our second tour was slightly more eventful, this was to Salinas Grandes ( the salt planes). Again we stopped on a number of places along the way including the seven coloured mountains and to take photos of the local vinaca and vicuña. Along the way we also encountered another protest which resulted in the road being closed for about 15 minutes. This would have been an amazing day had it not been for the family of four who had two children under the age of five! This was 14hr tour, the majority of which was spent in a bus on winding roads at altitudes up to 4200m. Within an hour the baby was screaming an the other had thrown up, the parents then rationally decided to give them fizzy drinks resulting in more vomiting! Safe to say we weren't a fan of kids at the end of the day!!
Back in Salta we visited the MAAM museum, which displays frozen children discovered in a volcano in 1999. These children were human sacrifices from the Incan times!! Despite the fact there was limited English information it was a pretty interesting museum. We then continued our religious tour of Latin America and visited the cathedral and convent. We also took the opportunity to buy some more souvenirs (as if we didn't have enough) at the market before embarking on another lengthy (24hr) bus journey to Iguazu.
This bus journey was more than a bit interesting. For a start, we had to catch 3 buses and each connection between buses was only 15 minutes. The first bus was relatively comfortable but was running an hour late. At 6am we got off hoping that our connecting bus had waited for us. Having befriended a Dutch couple who were freaking out way more than we were, we eventually discovered our connecting bus was also running late. For our final connection we actually arrived on time, but it turns out the other bus had decided to leave early! This however worked in our favour as we got a free upgrade and got the next bus to Iguazu. 25 hours after leaving Salta we finally arrived and spent the afternoon chilling out.
The following morning we got up early and caught the bus to the falls. This meant we made it into the park before all the tour buses when it was quiet and we basically had most of the place to ourselves. We started with the upper circuit which gave stunning views from the top of the falls. Following this we did the lower trail which provided a different perspective of the falls which was incredible. On this trail we also got up close to one of the waterfalls where we got pretty wet. Unfortunately due to recent flooding, the pathway to the Devils Throat, supposedly the best bit, was closed. We therefore decided to take a boat up to the Deviles Throat and to the San Martin Fall. This again gave a different view of the falls and resulted in us being completely drenched from head to toe. We thoroughly enjoyed our day on the Argentinian side of Iguazu falls and are looking forward to the Brazilian side.
We ended our time in Argentina with some traditional steak!! (Em has in fact eaten more steak in the last few weeks than in all her previous years put together!)
After disposing of our coca leaves we then headed to the Brazilian border, from where our next blog will begin.
Coca leaves are the leaves from which cocaine is derived. In Peru, Bolivia and Argentina the leaves themselves are used to combat the effects of altitude sickness. This is done by chewing them in the mouth do half an hour or so. Having bought some in Salta for our tours, we thought we'd keep the rest as souvenirs. Turn out they're illegal in Brazil as well as the UK. Good job we found this out before attempting to cross the Brazilian as otherwise we would have appeared on an episode "Banged up Abroad" for drug smuggling!!
Much love
X x x
Tuesday, 16 July 2013
Thursday, 11 July 2013
To the Incan Empire
After four flights totalling 20 hours with 2 six hour stopovers, one overnight stop and a minus fifteen hour time change, we arrived in Cusco, Peru. We spent the first day acclimatising to the altitude and wandering around the city. After checking in for our tour we discovered that it was in fact Inti Raymi, the Festival of the Sun. This meant that the main square was heaving, but we were able to see some of the parade and even the concert and fireworks in the evening. we spent Sunday having a look at the cathedral amongst other religious buildings and museums. we could mot leave Peru without sampling Alpaca and Guinea Pig. So that evening James munched on his whole guinea pig whilst Em had her Alpaca steak. A trip to the local markets was also in order and we eventually walked out with alpaca jumpers, hats and gloves!
Monday morning was an early start as we were picked up to begin our Salkantay trek at 5am! After a three hour bus journey with our guide, Christian, we were met by our cook, porter and 3 horses! Turns out it was just going to be the two of us on the tour! After being dropped off we started trekking at a height of 2900m. Over the course of the day we walked 16km and ascended 900m to our first camp at 3800m. Along the way we were lucky enough to see a condor and learnt that we walk extremely fast (we arrived at the lunch stop 2 hours ahead of schedule). Camping at 3800m was very cold to say the least, but the excellent food served up helped to soften the blow!
On the second day of the trek we were awoken to pancakes at 6am and left the campsite at 6.45. This was set to be a tough day as we had to climb up to the Salkantay pass at 4600m. Unfortunately Em had been ill the day before leaving for the trek and as a result, altitude sickness struck her pretty badly with only 300m left to climb. Eventually Christian insisted that she ride one of the ponies to the summit to avoid further illness or prevent her from completing the trek. Luckily we both made it to the top ok where we has awesome views but it was freezing and covered in snow. After taking a few photos started our descent. By this time Em was feeling better and walked for the reminder of the trek. After descending to 2800m we finally reached our camp for the night where we had dinner and played cards before crashing out. Safe to say this was an interesting day, especially as one of our horses tried to do a runner twice!
Day three was a much easier day, we said goodbye to our horses and porter in the morning and started the relatively flat 14km walk. Along the way we stopped for some fresh passion fruit and to wash our feet in the cold river. After lunch we took a taxi to St Teresa where we would be camping for the night. Our afternoon was spent relaxing at some hot springs we helped to ease our aching muscles!
For our final day of trekking we were especially happy to be allowed to lie in until 7.30. After our final cooked meal from Alberto we walked a very flat 10km route to Aguas Calientes via Hidroelectrica, where we had lunch. We arrived at our hostel around 2.30pm and spent the rest of our afternoon taking out first hot shower in a while.
Friday saw us getting up at 4am and despite the long queues we entered Machu Picchu just after 6am. Christian took us round the important archeological sites for the first two hours. Once he had left we walked up to the sun gate, where we got an awesome view of Machu Picchu from a different angle. Then we took the narrow pathway to the Inka bridge, which is now closed due the degradation of the path. We were still able to see how people used to arrive at Machu Picchu. After the going to the Temple of the Sun, fountains and the Inkas house we headed back To Aguas Calientes to catch our train to Cusco. Due to a recent landslide on the train line, we had to get a two hour train and then a two hour bus journey to get back to Cusco.
The following morning we caught an early flight to Lima and spent the day there. After wandering along the coast, to the lighthouse and through the love park we decided to sample the national dish that Christian had told us was better in Lima than Cusco. Ceviche is raw fish in a tangy source. It was great to try but it is surprisingly filling and not something we would be rushing to have again any time soon. In the afternoon we took a half day city tour which included visiting both the modern and old city, Olive Garden, a temple that used to be used for human sacrifices and the San Francisco Cathedral. This highlight of this cathedral were the catacombs down in the basement that we were able to walk around. In the evening we headed over to Parque de Reserva to enjoy the fountain show which was pretty impressive!
This ended our time in Peru and the following lunch time we boarded a plane to Buenos Aires for the last leg of our trip!
Much love
X x x
The following morning we caught an early flight to Lima and spent the day there. After wandering along the coast, to the lighthouse and through the love park we decided to sample the national dish that Christian had told us was better in Lima than Cusco. Ceviche is raw fish in a tangy source. It was great to try but it is surprisingly filling and not something we would be rushing to have again any time soon. In the afternoon we took a half day city tour which included visiting both the modern and old city, Olive Garden, a temple that used to be used for human sacrifices and the San Francisco Cathedral. This highlight of this cathedral were the catacombs down in the basement that we were able to walk around. In the evening we headed over to Parque de Reserva to enjoy the fountain show which was pretty impressive!
This ended our time in Peru and the following lunch time we boarded a plane to Buenos Aires for the last leg of our trip!
Much love
X x x
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